Everest Restaurant Review – A Chicago Restaurant You Should Know

Everest is a  Chicago restaurant you REALLY should know. When a friend commented on having recently celebrated an anniversary at Everest, this triggered memories of a previous anniversary that was celebrated many years ago and is still remembered with affection.  And so Chicago Splash Magazine reviewers Jackie, Steve, Barbara and Leon chose the occasion of a combined birthday and anniversary celebration to review the Everest experience.

Getting to Everest is easy by public transportation, limousine, and taxi, but driving gives the best experience. We drove up to the monitor,  announced we were going to Everest and gave our name.  We were then instructed to drive through an electric eye door to the valet (no charge), where we left the car. For a moment it felt like we were in a James Bond movie.

We then went through a door to an elevator, up one floor,  changed elevators and went up again making the restaurant entrance a welcome surprise.   The entry is beautiful and once inside, a panoramic view of Chicago, spread out across a wide window, is breathtaking. 

We noticed each table was decorated with unique and intriguing sculptures. When we inquired, we were told the Sculptor was Ivo Soldini, a friend of Jean Joho, the chef at Everest. Soldini’s works have been exhibited widely, and he has also been commissioned to produce monumental works for various public spaces, both in the United States and abroad.

Our waiter, Troy, greeted us warmly and lead us to a round table near the window, giving us an even closer view of the city.  Everything about our dining experience was carefully designed to provide a relaxed, comfortable, enjoyable and memorable evening. We were especially impressed with the way in which the simple question about menu restrictions resulted in Barbara’s being served some of the loveliest vegetarian fare she had ever experienced. In addition, after the first time she requested a small amount of wine, every server was aware of this.

Everest has been part of  "Les Grandes Tables du Monde" for eighteen years and the  “Relais and Chateaux” organization for twelve years and  Jean Joho, who opened Everest almost 25 years ago, is described as follows in the 2009 book:   “After coming to the United States almost 25 years ago, this Frenchman from Alsace is now one of the most respected chefs on the continent…..His hallmark is to combine noble products like foie gras or caviar with the humble potato and turnip to create delicious surprises.”  

Seated, and beginning to relax, we were offered a sparkling rose, Klipfel Cremant D'Alsace Rose .  This was a slightly sweet wine, served with an appetizer combination of English cucumber emulsion, White Almond Potage and Fluke served on a vinegary remoulade. The wispy sweet coolness of the cucumber emulsion, partnered with the creamy potage and crunchy Fluke, awakened yet another portion of the palate and readied us for an epicurean adventure , the beginning of a total experience that transcended any one element.  

We were charmed by the quirkiness of each dish. This was food as theater, and the service, food textures, colors and wine pairings were center stage, while the changing view of the city as the sun set was a floor-show accompaniment to our meal.

Courses:

The bread tray offered a variety of choices, from a French baguette to a multi-grain roll, and included an outstanding calamata-olive bread.  One of the waitstaff, joking, warned us to watch out for pits, noting that it was freshly made.

Next: Cold Michigan Corn Soup with Casco Bay Scallop and Crispy Brioche 

The corn chowder had a slight nutmeg flavor and was a textural treat with extra crunch provided by tiny bits of brioche, and the scallops sheared like flat noodles added both a smooth texture and rich flavor. The presentation was also enjoyable to watch, as the bowl came lined with diced peppers and corn, and the soup was poured into the bowls.

Wine: Domaine Bott-Geyl Muscat 2004 (Alsace, France)

This wine was a favorite at the table. We expected a sweet dessert wine but were pleasantly surprised by the complexity of this crisp wine.  It opened up nicely, with initial nectar notes like pear and a gently sweet floral bouquet, but eventually it had a slight spicy follow, and was an excellent pairing with the fish as well as the next course. 

We found that all of the wine pairings were well thought-out, worked well with more than one course and enhanced the overall dining experience.

Minute Smoked Arctic Char, Alsace Fingerling Potatoes, bacon

The natural earthiness of this fish, similar to salmon, was enhanced by a light smoking. The smoked flavor was subtle yet distinct, and the fish was served over lightly scalloped fingerling potatoes which perfectly balanced the buttery texture of the fish. The presentation was simple and beautiful. The bacon added flavor and texture, another crunchy addition.

Barbara's vegetarian course - Vintage Carnaroli Risotto, with English Peas & Thyme Mint

Sweet, mellow, chewy, amazing. We were impressed again by the combination of flavors and textures, and also by the inventiveness of Chef Joho in creating this dish so quickly.

Wine: Luna Benegas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Mendoza, Argentina)

Oaky and peppery, with a slightly fruity follow, an excellent pairing which accentuated the sweetness of the veal.

Filet of Wisconsin Veal Tenderloin, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Michigan Asparagus

Seared lightly, the veal was sweet and moist, topped with smoky chanterelle mushrooms.  It was perfectly done, slightly pink inside, and everyone described (almost simultaneously) that it melted in your mouth. We inquired about the ingredients, as we noted that most had come from nearby states, and were told that when possible, Chef Joho looks for ingredients that are relatively local to the area.

Barbara's vegetarian course - Smoked Yukon Potato, Spelt & Farro, Summer Vegetables

This was a wonderful contrast of texture and flavor. The potato also had a smoky flavor, and was crunchy, flavorful, with a delicious red pepper puree - we were amazed again that he came up with this on such short notice.

Apres-dessert - Lemon Verbena and Melon Potage, with cantaloupe, honeydew and watermelon balls

The Potage was an excellent palate-cleanser. The sugar-encrusted verbena (an herb like mint or lemon thyme) was bright and refreshingly resting in honeydew melon puree, reprised the bright notes of the cucumber emulsion appetizer, and prepared us for the spectacular dessert finale. The verbena especially intrigued us, as it brought back memories of favorite candied deserts, and the flavor was familiar but not entirely recognizable, so we spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out exactly what it tasted like. Lemon? Mint? Lemon mint? We couldn't quite pin it down, but not for lack of trying.

Dessert course:

By the time dessert came, we were sated, but the desserts were so beautifully presented that while we hesitated ito cut into them, there was no way we could resist them. We each tried the dish we were served, and then passed them around. The Fantasy of Chocolate-five different kinds of chocolate-was a favorite of the table. The Vanilla Yogurt Parfait with two kinds of glacie and petits four was also excellent. Though truth be told, no dish was left behind.

Fantasy of Chocolate (Selection of Five Chocolate Tastes)

Composition of Michigan Corn & Apricots (not shown)

Vanilla Yogurt Parfait, Banana Glacie Barre, Lemongrass and Peach Glacie, Petits Fours

Black Forest Cake 2009 Alsace Kirsch Eau-de-vie ~ Petit Fours

And still more...

At Everest everything combines to create a total experience.   The combination of a convoluted path leading to the beautiful entry followed by the spectacular view of the city are the beginning.  And then the show begins with the flavors and textures that delight the palate.  At the same time there is a wholesome quality to the produce and other products selected from nearby places in the Midwest.

Chef Jean Joho is a genius in creating a total environment in which guests can completely relax and feel catered to and very special.

To many, this is the best restaurant in Chicago.  So we may just have to return for this wonderful experience even if not celebrating a special event.

Everest
www. everestrestaurant.com
440 S La Salle St # 4000
Chicago, IL 60605-5032
(312) 663-8920

Photos: Chicago Splash Magazine team